Spiral Perm | Check out Different types of Spiral Curly Hair Perm

Perms have been a popular style since the 1980s. Today, they are more popular than ever with people who love to try new looks.

There are many types of perms. One of the most eye-catching styles is the spiral perm. This guide will explain everything you need to know.

We will cover what a spiral perm is, the different types, how it’s done, how long it lasts, and how to care for your new curls.

What is a Spiral Perm?

When you think of a “spiral perm,” picture springy, corkscrew curls. That’s exactly what it is.

A spiral perm is a modern technique for perming hair. It creates tight, coiled curls from your shoulders down.

The result is major volume and texture. The best part? Because your hair strands are different lengths and thicknesses, the curls will naturally vary in size. This creates a more natural, lived-in look.

Spiral perms add incredible body. They work especially well for people with fine or thin hair that lacks volume.

How Does a Perm Work?

Understanding the process helps you know what to expect. All perms, including spiral perms, use chemicals to change your hair’s structure.

The Basic Chemistry

Your hair is made of a protein called keratin. Its shape is held by tiny bonds. A perm solution breaks these bonds.

Once the bonds are broken, your hair is wrapped around perm rods. A second solution, called a neutralizer, is then applied. This re-forms the bonds, but now in the new, curly shape around the rod.

What Makes a Spiral Perm Different?

The main difference is in the wrapping technique. For a spiral perm:

• Vertical Wrapping: The hair is wrapped from the ends up to the scalp in a vertical, corkscrew pattern. This creates the long, springy spiral.
• Rod Choice: Longer, skinnier rods are often used to create the tight coil shape.
• Sectioning: Hair is sectioned into small, square parts. Each section is wrapped on its own rod for even, defined curls.

Types of Spiral Perms

Not all spiral perms look the same. The size of the rod and the stylist’s technique change the final look. Here are the main types of perms in the spiral family.

Loose Spiral Perm

Soft Spiral Perm

Tight Spiral Perm

Is a Spiral Perm Right for Your Hair?

Your hair type, length, and condition all matter. Here’s what to consider before you book your appointment.

Best Hair Types for a Spiral Perm

• Fine or Thin Hair: This hair type benefits the most. The perm adds much-needed body and volume that fine hair often lacks.
• Straight or Slightly Wavy Hair: This is the ideal canvas for creating defined spiral curls.
• Healthy Hair: Perm chemicals are harsh. Your hair should be in good condition, with minimal damage from coloring or heat styling.

Hair Types to Be Cautious With

• Thick, Coarse Hair: This hair type can already be bulky. A tight spiral perm might create too much volume, making hair hard to manage.
• Chemically Treated Hair: If your hair is already bleached, colored, or relaxed, a perm could cause severe damage or breakage. Always do a strand test first.
• Very Short Hair: You need enough length for the spiral to form. Hair should be at least 6-8 inches long for a good result.

Spiral Perm on Different Hair Lengths

The technique and results change based on your hair length. Here’s what to expect.

Spiral Perm for Long Hair

Spiral Perm for Short Hair

Spiral Perm for Medium Length Hair

Spiral Perm for Shoulder Length Hair

Spiral Perm Rods: The Complete Guide

Perm rods are the tools that create the curl. The size and color of the rod determine your curl’s tightness. Here is a full guide to perm rod sizes and their uses.

Rod Color	Size (Approx.)	Curl Result	Best For Hair Length
Red	2 inches	Very tight, kinky, dense curls	Short hair
Blue	2 – 3 inches	Tight coils, extra volume	Short hair
Pink	2.5 – 4 inches	Tight to medium, frizzy curls	Short to medium
Gray	3 – 5 inches	Medium curls	Medium length
White	4.5 – 6.5 inches	Medium to soft curls	Medium to long
Purple	6 inches	Soft waves, body waves	Medium to long

Your stylist will choose the rod size based on your hair length and the curl pattern you want. For classic spiral curls, long, narrow rods (like white or gray) are often used.

How to Do a Spiral Perm: Step-by-Step

This process is best done by a professional. But knowing the steps helps you understand what will happen in the salon chair.

Step 1: Consultation and Prep

Your stylist will examine your hair’s health and discuss your goal. They will likely do a strand test if your hair is colored.

Your hair is then washed with a clarifying shampoo to remove all oil and product buildup. It’s towel-dried until it’s damp, not dripping wet. Comb through to remove any tangles.

Step 2: Sectioning and Wrapping

Your hair is divided into small, neat sections. Starting at the nape of your neck, the stylist takes one section.

The end of the section is placed on a perm rod. Then, the hair is carefully wound down the length of the rod in a spiral pattern, all the way to your scalp. The rod is secured. This is repeated over your entire head.

Step 3: Applying the Perm Solution

The perm solution (the “waving lotion”) is applied to each rod. It soaks into the hair to break the protein bonds.

Your head may be covered with a plastic cap. The solution processes for 15-25 minutes, depending on your hair type and desired curl.

Step 4: Rinsing and Neutralizing

After processing, your hair is gently rinsed WITH THE RODS STILL IN. This removes the first chemical.

Then, the neutralizer is applied to each rod. This is the solution that re-locks your hair’s bonds in the new curly shape. It sits for about 5-10 minutes.

Step 5: Removing Rods and Final Rinse

The rods are carefully unwound and removed. Your hair is given a final, thorough rinse to wash away all chemicals.

Your stylist will gently blot your hair with a towel. They will then style it, usually with a curl-enhancing mousse or gel, and let it air dry or use a diffuser to reveal your new spirals.

Spiral Perm Aftercare and Maintenance

How you treat your perm in the first 48 hours and beyond determines how long it lasts and how healthy your hair stays.

The First 48 Hours (Critical)

• DO NOT WASH YOUR HAIR. The curls are still setting. Getting them wet will relax the bonds.
• Avoid pulling your hair back into ponytails or clips.
• Sleep on a satin or silk pillowcase to prevent frizz.

Washing and Conditioning Routine

• Use Sulfate-Free Shampoo: Sulfates strip natural oils and can dry out your perm.
• Condition Well: Use a rich conditioner or hair mask weekly. Focus on the mid-lengths and ends.
• Wash Less Often: Try to wash your hair only 2-3 times a week. Use dry shampoo in between if needed.

Styling and Drying Tips

• Never Brush Dry Curls: This causes frizz. Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers when your hair is wet and full of conditioner.
• Scrunch, Don’t Rub: When drying with a towel, gently scrunch your hair. Rubbing will create frizz.
• Use a Diffuser: If you use a hairdryer, always use a diffuser attachment on low heat and speed. Let your hair air dry whenever possible.
• Styling Products: Use curl-defining creams, mousses, or gels. Apply to damp hair and scrunch upwards to enhance your spirals.

Regular Maintenance

• Get regular trims every 6-8 weeks to prevent split ends from traveling up the curl.
• Use a deep conditioning treatment once a week to combat dryness from the chemicals.
• Avoid heat styling tools like flat irons. They will straighten your perm and cause damage.

Spiral Perm Cost and Longevity

How Much Does a Spiral Perm Cost?

The price can vary widely based on location, salon prestige, and stylist experience.

• Average Range: $80 to $200+.
• Factors: Longer, thicker hair costs more because it uses more product and time. A senior stylist will charge more than a junior stylist.

“On average, Spiral perm costs anywhere from $30 to $200”

How Long Does a Spiral Perm Last?

With proper care, a spiral perm can last a long time because the curl pattern is so tight.

• Typical Duration: 4 to 6 months.
• With Excellent Care: It can last up to 8 or 9 months. As your hair grows, the new growth at your roots will be straight, while the ends remain curly.

The perm doesn’t suddenly “fall out.” It gradually loosens over time. You’ll notice your spirals getting a bit wider and softer after a few months.

Spiral Perm vs. Other Perms

How does a spiral perm compare to other popular perm styles?

Perm Type	Description	Best For	Curl Pattern
Spiral Perm	Vertical wrapping creates corkscrew curls from root to end.	Long hair, fine hair, adding dramatic volume.	Tight, uniform spirals.
Body Wave Perm	Creates loose, S-shaped waves for added body and texture.	All hair lengths, people wanting subtle volume & wave.	Loose, beachy waves.
Regular (Traditional) Perm	Horizontal wrapping creates uniform curls all over.	Shorter styles, classic curl looks.	Consistent, all-over curls (often tighter).
Beach Wave Perm	Creates messy, undone, piece-y waves like day-at-the-beach hair.	Medium to long hair, effortless, low-maintenance style.	Loose, irregular, textured waves.
Digital Perm	Uses heated rods with digital temperature control for less damage.	People wanting bouncy curls with less chemical stress.	Often creates looser, bouncier curls.

Pros and Cons of a Spiral Perm

Before you decide, weigh the benefits against the drawbacks.

Pros

• Major Volume: Instantly adds incredible body, especially for fine hair.
• Long-Lasting: The tight curl pattern holds its shape for many months.
• Low Daily Maintenance: No need for curling irons. Just wash, style, and go.
• Versatile Styling: Can be worn down for drama or half-up for a softer look.

Cons

• Chemical Damage: All perms damage hair by breaking its bonds. Can lead to dryness and breakage if not cared for.
• High Commitment: You’re stuck with the curls until they grow out or are cut off.
• Can Be Frizzy: Without proper products and techniques, spiral curls can become dry and frizzy.
• Not for Everyone: Can be too voluminous for very thick hair and damaging for previously colored hair.

Spiral Perm FAQs

1. Can I color my hair and get a spiral perm?

It’s possible, but risky. Doing both on the same day is a recipe for severe damage. The best practice is to color your hair at least two weeks BEFORE the perm. Always have your stylist do a strand test first.

2. Can I get a spiral perm if my hair is already curly?

Yes, but the goal is different. Stylists often use a spiral perm on naturally curly hair to define and uniform the curl pattern, not necessarily to make it curlier. It can help tame frizz and create more consistent spirals.

3. My perm looks too tight! How can I loosen it?

Don’t panic. New perms often look their tightest for the first few days.