Types of Perms [Beach Wave, Body Wave, Smoothing & Non-Damaging]

Different Types of Perms

Perms have evolved far beyond the tight, springy curls of the past. Today’s perm techniques offer a range of styles, from soft waves to gentle volume, with options designed to minimize damage. Understanding the different types of perms helps you choose the best option for your hair goals, texture, and lifestyle.

Here are the main types of perms you should know about:

1. Beach Wave Perm
2. Body Wave Perm
3. Smoothing Perm
4. Non-Damaging Perm

1. Beach Wave Perm

Beach wave perms create loose, relaxed waves that mimic the natural texture you get after a day at the ocean. The waves are soft and undefined, focusing on the mid-lengths to ends of your hair rather than starting at the roots.

This style works best on medium to long hair and gives you that effortless, tousled look without daily heat styling. If you love beach wave hairstyles but are tired of using curling irons or wands every morning, a beach wave perm offers a long-lasting solution.

How Beach Wave Perms Work

Your stylist will use larger perm rods and wrap bigger sections of hair to create gentle, flowing waves. The perm solution is applied mainly to the middle and lower portions of each strand, leaving the roots untouched. This technique prevents the “poodle” effect at the scalp and maintains a natural-looking finish.

The result is soft, moveable waves with plenty of texture but no tight curls. Beach wave perms are part of a modern approach to perming that prioritizes natural-looking results over dramatic transformation.

Who Should Get a Beach Wave Perm

• People with straight or slightly wavy hair who want more texture
• Those with fine or medium hair thickness
• Anyone who wants low-maintenance styling
• People who prefer a relaxed, casual hair look

2. Body Wave Perm

A body wave perm adds volume and movement without creating obvious curls. This type of perm is ideal if your hair tends to fall flat by midday or lacks natural body and bounce.

Body wave perms work on any hair length and texture. They’re especially helpful for fine, limp hair that needs a lift. The waves created are very loose and natural-looking, giving your hair fullness and dimension rather than tight spirals.

How Body Wave Perms Work

Your stylist will choose the rod size based on your hair length and desired result. Most body wave perms use medium to large rods to create subtle bends and waves throughout your hair.

One popular technique is called a “skip weave.” The stylist uses a tail comb to separate alternating sections of hair, then wraps only every other section around the perm rods. This creates a blended, natural finish with areas of wave mixed with straight hair for a soft, flowing texture.

Who Should Get a Body Wave Perm

• People with flat, lifeless hair
• Those who want volume without obvious curls
• Anyone with fine or thin hair texture
• People who want hair that holds styles longer

3. Smoothing Perm

A smoothing perm—also called a straightening perm or reverse perm—relaxes curls and controls frizz instead of adding waves. This treatment is designed for people with curly, coily, or frizzy hair who want a straighter, more manageable texture.

Modern smoothing perms, like formaldehyde-free systems such as Matrix Opti Smooth, offer safer alternatives to older chemical straightening methods. These treatments reduce curl size, smooth the hair shaft, and eliminate frizz without completely removing all natural texture.

Types of Smoothing Perms

• Cool smoothing: A gentler option that reduces frizz while maintaining some of your natural curl pattern
• Hot temperature straightening: A more intensive treatment that smooths hair to a straighter finish
• 3D Curl treatment: Specifically designed for very curly or coily hair types to loosen tight curls and reduce frizz without making hair completely straight

Who Should Get a Smoothing Perm

• People with tight curls who want looser waves
• Those with thick, bulky hair that’s hard to manage
• Anyone struggling with persistent frizz
• People who want to reduce styling time without losing all texture

4. Non-Damaging Perm

Traditional perms use thioglycolic acid as the active ingredient. This chemical breaks down the disulfide bonds in your hair, allowing it to be reshaped into curls or waves. While effective, thioglycolic acid has a strong, unpleasant smell and can cause significant damage to the hair structure, especially with repeated use.

Non-damaging perms—also called “acid perms” or “cysteamine perms”—use gentler alternatives. Instead of thioglycolic acid, these formulas rely on cysteamine, an amino acid that also breaks disulfide bonds but in a less aggressive way.

How Non-Damaging Perms Are Different

Cysteamine-based perms have several advantages:

• Less odor: They don’t produce the harsh chemical smell typical of traditional perms
• Gentler on hair: They cause less structural damage to the hair shaft
• Better for damaged hair: They work well on previously colored or chemically treated hair

The trade-off is that cysteamine perms may not create as tight or long-lasting curls as thioglycolic acid perms. However, for people who want waves with minimal damage, this is often a worthwhile compromise. Understanding how perms work and the ingredients involved can help you choose the right option for your hair type.

Who Should Get a Non-Damaging Perm

• People with color-treated or previously damaged hair
• Those with fine or delicate hair texture
• Anyone sensitive to chemical smells
• People who want subtle waves rather than tight curls

Choosing the Right Perm Type for Your Hair

The best perm for you depends on your hair texture, condition, and styling goals. Here’s a quick comparison:

Perm Type	Best For	Result	Hair Condition Needed
Beach Wave	Straight to slightly wavy hair	Loose, tousled waves	Healthy, medium to long hair
Body Wave	Fine, flat hair	Subtle volume and movement	Any healthy hair type
Smoothing	Curly or frizzy hair	Reduced curl and frizz	Thick, curly, or coarse hair
Non-Damaging	Damaged or color-treated hair	Gentle waves with less damage	Fragile or chemically treated hair

Perm Maintenance and Aftercare

All perms require proper care to maintain results and protect hair health:

• Wait 48 hours before washing: Let the perm fully set before getting your hair wet
• Use sulfate-free shampoo: Harsh detergents can strip the perm and dry out your hair
• Apply deep conditioner weekly: Perms can be drying, so regular moisture treatments are essential
• Minimize heat styling: Let your hair air dry when possible to preserve the wave pattern
• Get regular trims: Keep ends healthy to maintain the overall look

What to Expect from Your Perm

Perms typically last three to six months, depending on your hair type, the perm technique used, and how well you care for your hair. As your hair grows, you’ll see new straight growth at the roots, while the permed portions gradually loosen.

Keep in mind that perms work differently on different hair types. Fine hair may hold waves longer but can also become damaged more easily. Thick, coarse hair may need stronger solutions or longer processing times to achieve visible results.

Before committing to any perm, consult with an experienced stylist who can assess your hair’s condition and recommend the best option for your specific texture and goals. A professional evaluation helps ensure you get the results you want while keeping your hair as healthy as possible.