Corkscrew Curls [S Curls] | 11 Steps to Get Corkscrew Curls

Corkscrew curls, sometimes called S-curls, are a beautiful and eye-catching hairstyle. These tight, springy spirals turn heads. While spiral curls are a type of corkscrew curl, corkscrew curls themselves are more fragile and tend to frizz easily.

Because they are delicate, your styling tools and routine matter a lot. Using a rough towel can cause frizz and breakage. The best choice is a soft microfiber towel or an old cotton t-shirt. These materials create less friction, which helps protect your curls and keeps them smooth.

What Are Corkscrew Curls (S-Curls)?

Corkscrew curls are tight, defined ringlets that form a perfect “S” shape from root to end. They are known for their high volume, density, and bouncy, spring-like quality.

This curl pattern can appear naturally in hair types ranging from 3A to 4C, but it can also be created with heat styling or a perm. Whether your hair is short, medium, or long, you can achieve this look.

However, corkscrew curls require special care. They are naturally dry, prone to tangling, and can become frizzy very quickly if not managed properly. The right products and techniques are key to keeping them healthy and defined.

How to Get Corkscrew Curls: 11-Step Guide

If your hair isn’t naturally this curly, you can create beautiful corkscrew curls using heat styling tools like a curling wand or perm rods. The size of the curling tool is the most important factor for getting the right spiral shape.

Using a rod that’s too wide will give you loose waves, not tight corkscrews. What you do after curling is also crucial. Brushing or touching the curls too much will ruin their shape and create frizz. Follow this detailed guide for perfect results.

Step 1: Prepare and Protect Your Hair

Start with clean, dry hair. Apply a heat protectant spray from about 6 inches away, coating all of your hair. This creates a barrier to prevent heat damage.

Use a wide-tooth comb or brush to evenly spread the product and detangle your hair completely. Starting with smooth, knot-free hair is essential for even curls.

Step 2: Section Your Hair

Gather all your hair into a loose, high ponytail on top of your head. Use a soft scrunchie or a claw clip, not a tight rubber band. A rubber band can leave dents and creases in your hair. This “pineapple” method helps you work with the bottom layer first without the top hair getting in the way.

Step 3: Choose the Right Curling Tool

Heat your curling wand. For true corkscrew curls, you need a wand with a very small barrel diameter—ideally, one that is thinner than your finger. Look for a “corkscrew curling wand” or a “3/8 inch” (10mm) barrel for the tightest spirals.

Step 4: Take a Small Section

Let down a small piece of hair from the bottom of your ponytail. The section should be no wider than the barrel of your wand. For thick hair, you can take slightly larger sections. For thin hair, keep them very small. Taking sections that are too thick can lead to uneven curls and frizz.

Step 5: Wrap the Hair Carefully

Wrap the section of hair around the wand in a spiral, like the stripes on a candy cane. Do not let the hair overlap on itself. Keep the hair taut and wrap it closely together for a defined spiral. Be careful not to touch the hot barrel with your fingers or scalp.

Step 6: Release the Curl

Hold the hair on the wand for 8-15 seconds. The exact time depends on your hair’s thickness and the tool’s heat setting. Then, carefully unwind the curl and slide the wand out. Let the curl fall naturally without pulling on it. The curl will be very hot, so don’t touch it yet.

Step 7: Repeat on the Bottom Layer

Continue curling small sections from the bottom half of your ponytail. Work your way around your head until the entire lower layer is curled. Let the curls cool completely in their spiral shape.

Step 8: Move to the Next Layer

Once the bottom layer is done, release the ponytail. Then, gather the top half of your hair into another high ponytail, securing it out of the way. This exposes the next layer to curl. If you have very thick hair, you may need to create three or more layers.

Step 9: Curl the Remaining Hair

Repeat the curling process on this new layer. For a natural look, you can alternate the direction you wrap the hair (some away from your face, some toward it). Always keep the hair strand horizontal to the floor as you wrap it around the vertical wand.

Step 10: Shape and Cool the Curls

Once all curls are done and have cooled, gently separate them with your fingers. Do not use a brush or comb. Simply run your fingers through the roots to loosen them and shake your head lightly. This adds volume while keeping the tight corkscrew shape intact.

Step 11: Lock in the Style

Apply a small amount of shine serum or lightweight oil to your palms. Gently scrunch the product upwards into your curls. This adds shine, reduces frizz, and helps the curls hold their shape. For extra hold, finish with a light mist of flexible-hold hairspray.

How to Care for and Maintain Corkscrew Curls

Creating the curls is only half the battle. Keeping them looking good requires a dedicated routine. Corkscrew curls lose moisture fast and are prone to tangling overnight.

Daily and Nightly Routine

When	Action	Why It Helps
Morning Refresh	Spritz with a water and leave-in conditioner mix. Gently scrunch.	Reactivates curl pattern, adds moisture, reduces daytime frizz.
Night Protection	Gather hair into a loose, high “pineapple” ponytail with a satin scrunchie. Or, sleep on a satin pillowcase.	Prevents friction, tangles, and flattening while you sleep.

Washing and Conditioning

Wash your hair less frequently—aim for 1-2 times a week. Always use a sulfate-free shampoo and a rich, hydrating conditioner. After washing, apply a leave-in conditioner and a curl-defining cream to soaking wet hair. This is the best time to shape your curls. Dry with a microfiber towel, never a regular towel, by scrunching gently.

Recommended Products for Corkscrew Curls

Product Type	Key Ingredients to Look For	What to Avoid
Shampoo & Conditioner	Shea butter, coconut oil, argan oil, glycerin.	Sulfates, silicones (dimethicone), drying alcohols.
Styling Creams & Gels	Flaxseed, aloe vera, pectin, honey.	Heavy waxes, petrochemicals.
Treatments	Deep conditioners with protein (keratin) and moisturizers.	N/A

Corkscrew Curls on Different Hair Types

Corkscrew Curls on Short Hair

Short hair (up to 8 inches or 20cm) is perfect for playful, bouncy corkscrew curls. You can achieve this with a small-barrel curling wand. For a heat-free option, look for flexible, coiled perm rods specifically designed for short hair. These rods let you roll damp hair, let it dry, and unroll for perfect spirals without any heat damage.

Corkscrew Curls on Relaxed Hair

Relaxed hair has been chemically straightened, so it needs extra care. Always use a strong heat protectant before curling. Because relaxed hair can be more fragile, consider using medium heat and holding the curl for a shorter time. You can also create beautiful, long-lasting corkscrew curls on relaxed hair with a spiral perm at a salon, which reduces daily heat styling.

Corkscrew Curls on Natural Hair

If you have natural curly hair, you can enhance your corkscrew pattern with a braid-out or twist-out. Start on freshly washed, deep-conditioned hair. While hair is damp, apply a curl cream and braid or twist small sections very tightly. The smaller the sections, the tighter the curls will be. Allow hair to dry completely, then unravel for defined, frizz-free S-curls. For more ideas, explore other perm rod hairstyles that work on natural hair.

Spiral Curls vs. Corkscrew Curls: Key Differences

Spiral Curls	Corkscrew Curls
Wider, looser curl pattern.	Tighter, narrower ringlet pattern.
Generally less prone to frizz.	More delicate and prone to frizz.
Can be created with most curling iron sizes.	Requires a very small barrel wand (3/8″ or 10mm).
Lower maintenance, more forgiving.	Higher maintenance, needs specific products.
Better for a voluminous, romantic look.	Better for a defined, dramatic, high-fashion look.

Which should you choose? If you want an easy, low-frizz style with lots of volume, opt for spiral curls. If you desire a precise, head-turning style and are willing to follow a strict care routine, choose corkscrew curls.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

How long do corkscrew curls last?

Heat-styled corkscrew curls typically last 1-2 days. With proper night protection (a satin bonnet or pillowcase), you can extend them to 3 days. A spiral perm from a salon can last 3-6 months.

Can you brush corkscrew curls?

Never brush dry corkscrew curls. It will separate the curl clumps and create a frizzy, undefined mess. Only detangle with a wide-tooth comb or your fingers when your hair is wet and full of conditioner.

My corkscrew curls are frizzy. What can I do?

Frizz is usually due to a lack of moisture or too much friction. Make sure you are using enough leave-in conditioner and a curl-defining cream on wet hair. Always dry with a microfiber towel or t-shirt. For frizz that’s already there, lightly smooth a tiny amount of serum or oil over the frizzy areas. Learn more about fixing frizzy permed hair.

Are corkscrew curls bad for your hair?

Creating them frequently with high heat can cause damage over time. The key is to always use a heat protectant, use the lowest effective heat setting, and incorporate deep conditioning treatments weekly. Heat-free methods like perm rods or braid-outs are healthier alternatives.