Ingredients in Perms | How do Perms Work?

To get beach waves or change your hair’s style, many people use a perm. A perm is a chemical treatment that changes your hair’s shape. The products used in perms contain specific ingredients. These ingredients break and reset your hair’s bonds to create a new curl or wave pattern.

This guide explains what a perm is, how it works, and what’s in the products. You will learn about the chemicals, the process, and how to care for your hair before and after a perm.

How Do Perms Work? The Simple Science

Your hair is made of a protein called keratin. Inside keratin are strong chemical bonds called disulfide bonds. These bonds give your hair its natural shape—whether it’s straight, wavy, or curly.

A perm works in three main steps:

Step 1: Breaking the Bonds (The Softening Lotion)

A “waving lotion” or “softening solution” is applied to your hair. The main chemical in this lotion, usually ammonium thioglycolate, breaks the disulfide bonds that hold your hair’s shape. This makes your hair very soft and moldable, like wet clay.

Step 2: Shaping the Hair (The Rods or Iron)

While your hair is soft, it is wrapped around perm rods to create curls or waves. For a straightening perm (often called a “rebonding” or “relaxing” treatment), hair is combed straight and sometimes heat is applied.

Step 3: Rebuilding the Bonds (The Neutralizer)

A second solution, called the “neutralizer,” is applied. This liquid usually contains hydrogen peroxide or a similar oxidizer. It rebuilds the disulfide bonds in their new position, locking in the curl, wave, or straight shape permanently until new hair grows out.

Ingredients in Perms: What’s Inside the Bottle

Understanding the ingredients helps you know what you’re putting on your hair. Here are the key parts of any perm kit:

1. The Waving or Softening Lotion

This is the chemical solution that breaks the hair’s bonds.

• Main Active Ingredient: Ammonium Thioglycolate (ATG). This is the reducing agent. It breaks the sulfur-to-sulfur (disulfide) bonds in your hair. It has a very strong ammonia smell.
• Other Common Ingredients:

• Ammonia: Creates an alkaline (high pH) environment. This helps the ATG penetrate the hair shaft more effectively.
• Conditioning Agents: Ingredients like cetrimonium chloride or panthenol are sometimes added to help protect hair during the process.
• Fragrances: Used to try to mask the strong chemical smell.

2. The Neutralizer

This solution stops the chemical process and rebuilds the bonds.

• Main Active Ingredient: Hydrogen Peroxide or Sodium Bromate. These are oxidizing agents. They re-form the disulfide bonds in the hair’s new shape.
• pH Balancers (Acid): Often contains an acid like glyceryl monothioglycolate to bring the hair’s pH back to normal and close the hair cuticle.

3. Other Kit Components

Perm Rods: Plastic or foam rods of different sizes that determine the curl’s tightness. Different types of perms like beach wave, body wave, and smoothing perms use different rod sizes and techniques.

End Papers/ Wrapping Papers: Thin tissues used to wrap the ends of hair sections neatly around the rods.

Applicator Bottle: For precisely applying the solutions.

What to Know Before You Perm: Safety & Suitability

Perms are chemical treatments and can damage hair if not done correctly. Here’s what you need to consider.

Is Your Hair a Good Candidate?

• Healthy Hair is Best: Perms work best on hair in good condition. If your hair is already dry, brittle, or damaged from coloring or heat, a perm can make it worse.
• Previous Treatments Matter: You should not perm hair that has been treated with metallic dyes (like some “progressive” hair color) or a previous relaxer without a professional consultation. This can cause severe breakage.
• Hair Porosity: Highly porous hair (often from damage) absorbs chemicals too quickly, which can lead to over-processing.

Potential Risks and Hair Damage

Potential damage includes:

• Over-Processing: Hair becomes mushy, weak, and can break off.
• Dryness & Frizz: The chemical process strips natural oils, leading to dry, frizzy hair.
• Scalp Irritation: Chemicals can burn or irritate the scalp, especially if you have cuts or sensitive skin.
• Allergic Reactions: Some people may react to thioglycolate or other ingredients.

To understand the long-term impact, it’s helpful to read about what a perm actually does to your hair in detail.

Salon Perm vs. Home Perm Kit: A Comparison

Factor	Salon Perm	Home Perm Kit
Cost	Higher ($50 – $200+)	Lower ($10 – $40)
Expertise	Applied by a trained professional.	Applied by yourself; higher risk of error.
Customization	High. A stylist assesses your hair and customizes rod size, solution strength, and timing.	Low. Uses a one-size-fits-most formula and generic instructions.
Safety & Results	Generally safer. More predictable, professional results.	Higher risk of damage, uneven curls, or scalp burns if done incorrectly.
Best For	First-timers, complex styles, or anyone with color-treated or delicate hair.	Those on a tight budget with virgin (untreated), healthy hair who are good at following detailed instructions.

If you choose to do it at home, be sure to research the best home perm kits and follow the instructions exactly. For specific styles, check out ways to get perfect beach waves.

The Complete Perm Process: Step-by-Step

1. Consultation & Hair Prep: Hair is often not washed for 24-48 hours before to protect the scalp with natural oils. A stylist will analyze your hair’s condition and desired result.
2. Sectioning & Wrapping: Hair is divided into small sections. Each section is rolled onto a perm rod, starting at the ends. End papers are used to keep ends smooth.
3. Applying the Waving Lotion: The softening lotion is applied thoroughly to each rolled section. The processing time begins (usually 5-20 minutes).
4. Rinsing: After processing, the rods are rinsed thoroughly with water while still in the hair to remove the chemical solution.
5. Blotting: Excess water is carefully blotted from the rolled hair with a towel.
6. Applying the Neutralizer: The neutralizer is applied to each rod. It is left on for the full time listed in the instructions (usually about 5-10 minutes).
7. Final Rinse & Unrolling: The rods are rinsed again, then carefully unwrapped.
8. Styling: Hair is gently conditioned and styled as desired. It should not be washed for at least 48 hours to allow the bonds to fully set.

Aftercare: How to Make Your Perm Last

• Wait to Wash: Do not shampoo your hair for at least 48 hours after perming.
• Use Gentle, Moisturizing Products: Switch to a sulfate-free shampoo and a rich conditioner. Use a leave-in conditioner or curl cream daily.
• Avoid Heat: Let your hair air-dry when possible. If you must use heat, always apply a heat protectant spray first.
• Detangle Gently: Use a wide-tooth comb on wet, conditioned hair, not a brush on dry hair.
• Get Regular Trims: Get ends trimmed every 6-8 weeks to prevent split ends from traveling up the perm-treated hair.
• Protect Your Hair at Night: Sleep on a silk or satin pillowcase, or wrap your hair in a silk scarf to reduce friction and frizz.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

How long does a perm last?

A perm lasts until new hair grows out, typically 3 to 6 months. The curls will soften and loosen over time, but the treated hair remains permanently changed.

Can I perm colored or bleached hair?

It is possible but risky and should only be done by a highly experienced professional. Bleached hair is very fragile. Perming it can cause severe breakage. A stylist will need to perform a test strand first.

What’s the difference between a perm and a relaxer?

They use similar chemistry but for opposite goals. A perm adds curl or wave to straight hair. A relaxer uses a strong alkaline chemical (like sodium hydroxide or guanidine hydroxide) to permanently straighten curly or coily hair.

Can a perm be reversed?

No. The only way to “reverse” a perm is to grow it out and cut off the permed hair. You cannot chemically straighten a perm back to its original state without causing extreme damage.

Are there less damaging alternatives to a chemical perm?

Yes. For temporary waves, you can use heat styling with curling irons or wands, heatless curling methods like foam rollers or braiding damp hair, or texturizing sprays. These wash out, unlike a permanent chemical change.

Understanding the science, ingredients, and process helps you make an informed decision about perming. Whether you choose a salon or a home perm kit, always prioritize the health of your hair. Proper aftercare is essential to keep your new curls or waves looking beautiful and your hair feeling strong. If you’re curious about the underlying chemistry, there is a lot of chemistry involved in perming that determines the final result.