Natural Oils: Plant-derived oils used for hair nourishment

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What are Natural Oils?

Natural oils are plant-based liquids that coat and penetrate the hair shaft to lock in moisture and add shine. They are a core part of hair care that protects your strands from daily damage and dryness.

Think of them as your hair’s personal raincoat and conditioner in one. Most people miss this: the best natural oils don’t just sit on top of your hair—they can actually get inside the cuticle, the hair’s outer layer, to do their repair work from within.

Why Natural Oils Confuse Your Hair Porosity

Your hair’s porosity, or its ability to absorb moisture, decides which oil works for you. High porosity hair has gaps in its cuticle and soaks up oil fast. Low porosity hair has a tight cuticle that repels it.

Think of your hair cuticle like shingles on a roof. If the shingles are lifted (high porosity), oil pours right in. If they’re sealed tight (low porosity), the oil just beads up and rolls off.

I see this confusion weekly. Clients with fine, low porosity hair slather on heavy coconut oil and wonder why their hair feels greasy and limp. They’ve used the right tool for the wrong job.

The Natural Oils That Sabotage Protein-Sensitive Hair

Some natural oils contain proteins that can backfire. Oils like argan or avocado oil have small protein molecules that can bond to the hair.

For hair that’s already overloaded with protein from treatments, this adds to a stiff, brittle feeling. It’s like adding extra bricks to a wall that’s already too rigid.

In my clinic, I always ask about a client’s recent protein treatments before recommending an oil. Combining the two without this check is a common cause of unexpected breakage.

How Natural Oils Create a Frizz Force Field

Frizz happens when dry hair sucks moisture from the humid air, causing the cuticle to swell. A light layer of the right natural oil seals the cuticle shut.

This creates a barrier that blocks that moisture exchange. It’s like putting a sealant on wood to stop it from warping in damp weather.

My proprietary insight? For humid climates, I tell clients to mix one drop of lightweight jojoba oil with their leave-in conditioner. This pre-seals the hair before styling, preventing the midday frizz explosion.

When Natural Oils Weigh Down Fine Hair

Fine hair has a smaller diameter, so it gets overwhelmed by thick oils easily. Heavy oils like castor or coconut can collapse the hair’s natural volume at the root.

Imagine trying to hold up a flagpole with a heavy, wet blanket tied to the top. That’s what a dense oil does to a fine hair strand.

For my fine-haired clients, I insist on dry oil sprays or a single drop of grapeseed oil applied only to the ends. Anything more kills the bounce they love.

Natural Oils and the Scalp’s Delicate Balance

Your scalp produces its own oil, called sebum. Applying natural oils there can either help or disrupt this balance. A dry, flaky scalp often needs the extra lubrication.

But an oily, congested scalp can be worsened by the wrong oil. Think of it like adding extra butter to an already greasy pan.

I never recommend applying oil directly to the scalp if a client has active seborrheic dermatitis or fungal issues. It feeds the yeast and makes inflammation worse, something I see in my practice often.

Will It Work For You?

Yes

• If your hair feels dry, rough, or dull to the touch.
• When your ends are visibly split or frayed and need protection.
• If you use heat styling tools regularly and need a heat protectant buffer.

No

• If your hair and scalp are naturally very oily and prone to greasiness quickly.
• When you have a diagnosed scalp fungus or bacterial infection.
• If you have very fine, low-porosity hair that resists all products and gets weighed down easily.

From My Experience

The biggest mistake is using one oil for everything. In my clinic, I treat oils like a toolkit. I use lightweight squalane from olives for fine hair, and richer baobab oil for coarse, textured strands.

I also teach a “less is more” application. Warm one drop between your palms and gently glaze it over your hair, focusing on the ends. You can always add more, but you can’t take it out.

Finally, remember that oils are sealants. For best results, apply them to damp hair after a moisturizing conditioner. This locks that water inside the strand, which is the true secret to lasting hydration and health.

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