Microlocs – A Complete Guide [Everything you Need to Know about Microlocs]

Are you tired of wearing the same hairstyle all year long? Box braids, million braids, twists, and crochet braids have been popular for years. Maybe you’ve tried them all and you’re ready for something different.

If you want to switch things up, there’s a beautiful hairstyle you should know about: microlocs. This gorgeous style is worth every minute you spend installing and caring for it. It works in any weather because it’s lightweight and helps you stay cool in the heat. At the same time, microlocs cover your scalp completely, keeping you warm in cold weather without needing a hood.

This complete guide will teach you everything about microlocs—what they are, how they differ from other locs, how to install them, and how to care for them properly.

What are Microlocs?

Microlocs are small, thin locs created by twisting, coiling, or braiding natural hair strands. They look like traditional dreadlocks but much smaller. Each loc is thinner than your pinkie finger—about the diameter of a pencil, or even thinner.

Most people have between 100 and 1,000 microlocs, depending on their hair thickness, head size, and how small they want each loc to be. The smaller you make each loc, the more locs you’ll have overall.

Microlocs are very flexible when it comes to styling. You can wash them, braid them, cornrow them, dye them, cut them into layers, or pull them into a ponytail. You don’t need special training to install microlocs. You can use a simple crochet tool, or just braid or twist your hair by hand.

Key Features of Microlocs

• Size: Between 6mm to 9mm thick (smaller than a pencil)
• Number: Usually 100 to 1,000 locs depending on hair density
• Installation methods: Twisting, braiding, coiling, or interlocking
• Maintenance: Low to moderate; requires retightening every 6 to 8 weeks
• Versatility: Can be styled in many different ways

Who Can Wear Microlocs?

Microlocs work well for most hair types, especially textured and curly hair. They are ideal for people who:

• Want a long-term, low-maintenance protective style
• Have thinning hair or sparse edges (microlocs can create a fuller look)
• Prefer lightweight hairstyles that don’t pull on the scalp
• Want styling flexibility without damaging their natural hair

Straight or loosely wavy hair can also be locked, but it takes longer for the locs to mature and tighten.

Microlocs Vs Other Locs: Key Differences

Understanding how microlocs compare to other types of locs will help you choose the right style for your needs.

1. Microlocs Vs Traditional Locs

Microlocs and traditional locs are installed using similar methods—coiling, braiding, twisting, or interlocking. Both styles go through the same four maturity stages: starter, budding, shooting, and contracting.

The main difference is size. Traditional locs are 10mm thick or larger, while microlocs are between 6mm and 9mm. Because microlocs are smaller, you’ll have many more of them on your head compared to traditional locs.

Traditional locs feel heavier and take up more space on your scalp. Microlocs feel lighter and offer more styling versatility.

2. Microlocs Vs Sisterlocs

Sisterlocs are much thinner than microlocs—about the diameter of a drinking straw or a strand of spaghetti. They require a certified Sisterlocs consultant to install them using a special interlocking tool. The installation is precise and follows a specific grid pattern.

Because Sisterlocs are so small and require professional expertise, they cost much more than microlocs. Installation can range from $500 to over $1,000, depending on your location and hair length.

Sisterlocs also require maintenance every 4 to 6 weeks with a trained consultant. Microlocs, on the other hand, can be maintained at home and only need attention every 6 to 8 weeks.

3. Braidlocs Vs Microlocs

Braidlocs are simply microlocs that are started with braids instead of twists or coils. The terms are often used interchangeably. The main difference is the starting method.

Braidlocs may require an interlocking tool for maintenance, while microlocs started with twists usually don’t. Both styles mature into the same type of loc over time.

4. Microlocs Vs Interlocks

Interlocks refer to a locking method, not a specific loc size. You can create interlocks by parting your hair and using a locking tool to pull the end of each strand through the root, creating a secure loc.

Interlocks are usually thicker than microlocs and closer in size to traditional dreadlocks. The installation pattern is often a brick-lay or grid design. Unlike microlocs, interlocks don’t always require braiding or twisting first. You can start them directly by pulling the hair through itself.

Comparison Table: Microlocs Vs Other Locs

Feature	Microlocs	Traditional Locs	Sisterlocs	Interlocks
Size	6mm–9mm	10mm or larger	3mm–5mm	10mm or larger
Number of locs	100–1,000	50–150	400–600+	50–200
Installation time	24–50 hours	6–12 hours	24–48 hours	8–16 hours
Cost	$150–$400	$100–$300	$500–$1,200	$200–$500
Maintenance	Every 6–8 weeks	Every 4–8 weeks	Every 4–6 weeks	Every 6–10 weeks
DIY friendly	Yes	Yes	No	Moderate

How Long Should Your Hair Be For Microlocs?

The length of your hair before starting microlocs depends on your hair type and texture.

For Natural (Virgin) Hair

If you have natural hair that has never been chemically treated, you need at least 2 inches of hair to start microlocs. This length gives you enough hair to twist, braid, or coil properly.

For Relaxed or Permed Hair

If your hair is relaxed or permed, wait until your roots grow out at least 1.5 inches of new, virgin hair before installing microlocs. Chemically treated hair does not lock well and can break easily.

Apply your loc products only to the natural new growth, not the relaxed ends. As your locs mature, you can trim off the relaxed portions to let your natural hair take over.

For Curly or Kinky Hair

Curly, coily, or kinky hair locks much faster than straight hair. You can start microlocs with as little as 1 inch of length if your hair has a tight curl pattern.

For Straight Hair

Straight hair takes longer to lock and requires more length to hold the twist or braid. Wait until your hair is at least 2 to 3 inches long before starting microlocs. You may also need to use more product and be patient during the maturity process.

How Long Will Your Hair Be After Installing Microlocs?

Healthy hair grows about half an inch per month, or roughly 6 inches per year. Microlocs follow the same growth pattern as loose hair.

After you install microlocs, your hair may appear shorter at first because twisting and braiding pulls the hair in. This is called “shrinkage.” Over the first few months, your locs will loosen slightly and appear longer as they mature.

If you start with shoulder-length hair, you can expect your microlocs to reach mid-back length in about 2 years. If you start with shorter hair (around 2 to 4 inches), you can expect shoulder-length locs within 12 to 18 months.

Your growth rate depends on your genetics, diet, hair care routine, and how often you trim your ends.

How Long Does it Take to Install Microlocs?

It takes between 24 to 50 hours to install microlocs from start to finish. The exact time depends on your hair length, thickness, head size, and how small you want each loc.

Because the process is so long, most people break it into multiple sessions. For example, you can spend 8 to 10 hours per day over 3 to 5 days instead of sitting for two full days straight.

If you’re doing it yourself at home, expect the process to take longer. It’s hard to reach the back of your head, and your arms will get tired. Plan for 5 to 7 days of work if you’re installing your own microlocs.

Tips for a Smoother Installation

• Book your salon appointment weeks in advance
• Bring snacks, water, and meals so you don’t waste time
• Bring your phone, tablet, or laptop to watch movies or listen to music
• Wear comfortable clothes
• Take breaks to stretch and avoid cramps

How Much Do Starter Microlocs Cost?

The cost to install starter microlocs in a salon ranges from $150 to $400.

The price depends on your location, hair length, hair thickness, and the stylist’s experience. In large cities, the cost may be higher.

DIY Installation Cost

If you install microlocs yourself at home, your costs will be much lower. You’ll only need to buy:

• A rat-tail comb for parting ($3–$8)
• Hair clips to section your hair ($5–$10)
• Loc gel or wax ($5–$15)
• A mirror (optional, if you don’t have one)

Total DIY cost: $15 to $35.

However, DIY installation has downsides. Your locs may not be uniform in size, especially in the back where you can’t see well. Uneven locs can lead to weak spots, breakage, or gaps in coverage. If you’re not confident in your skills, it’s worth paying a professional.

Maintenance Costs

Retightening your microlocs every 6 to 8 weeks costs between $50 and $150 per session, depending on your stylist and location. You can save money by learning to retighten your own locs at home after the first few maintenance appointments.

Installation of Microlocs: Step-by-Step Guide

Here’s a detailed, easy-to-follow guide for installing microlocs at home or in a salon.

Step 1: Wash Your Hair

Wash your hair thoroughly with shampoo to remove all oils, dirt, and product buildup. Clean hair locks better and faster than dirty hair.

Use a clarifying shampoo like Aveeno Apple Cider Vinegar Shampoo (Sulfate-Free) to get your hair squeaky clean.

Do not use conditioner. Conditioner makes your hair too soft and slippery, which can cause your locs to unravel during the first few days or weeks.

If you want to condition your hair, do a deep conditioning treatment one to two weeks before your installation day. This strengthens your hair without interfering with the locking process.

Step 2: Detangle and Section Your Hair

While your hair is still damp, detangle it gently using a wide-tooth comb. Start from the ends and work your way up to the roots to avoid breakage.

Part your hair into 4 to 6 large sections and secure each section with a hair clip or loose band. Let your hair air dry completely. Do not blow dry, as heat can damage your hair before you even start.

Step 3: Create Your Parting Pattern

This is one of the most important steps. Your parting pattern affects how neat and uniform your locs look.

Use a rat-tail comb to create small, square sections across your scalp. Each section should be about the size you want each loc to be. Smaller sections = more locs. Larger sections = fewer, thicker locs.

Clip each section as you go so they don’t get mixed up. Work slowly and carefully. This step can take several hours, but it’s worth it for a clean result.

Step 4: Twist or Braid Each Section

Now you’re ready to create the locs. Choose one of these methods:

• Two-strand twists: Divide each section into two strands and twist them around each other from root to tip. This method is faster and easier for beginners.
• Three-strand braids: Braid each section like a regular braid. This method creates a neater look that resembles Sisterlocs, but it takes much longer.
• Coiling: Twist the hair in one direction while wrapping it around itself. This works well for very short hair.

Start at the back of your head and work your way forward. This way, you won’t get tired and do a sloppy job on the parts people see most.

Secure the end of each twist or braid with a small rubber band or by tucking the end under itself.

Step 5: Apply Loc Gel or Wax

Once all your twists or braids are complete, apply a small amount of loc gel or wax to the ends and along the length of each loc. This helps them stay neat and encourages the locking process.

Don’t use too much product. Too much gel or wax creates buildup, attracts dirt, and makes your locs look greasy.

A great product for this step is Jamaican Mango and Lime Rasta and Twist Locking Creme Wax.

Step 6: Style and Protect Your New Locs

You can style your new microlocs right away. Try a bun, ponytail, or leave them down. Avoid heavy manipulation for the first two weeks.

At night, cover your locs with a satin or silk scarf or bonnet to prevent frizz and keep them neat.

The Four Stages of Microlocs Maturity

Microlocs go through four natural stages as they mature. Understanding these stages helps you care for your locs properly and know what to expect.

Stage 1: Starter Stage (0–6 Months)

Your locs are soft, neat, and uniform. They may unravel easily if you don’t retighten them regularly. Your scalp is still visible between the locs.

During this stage, be gentle. Avoid heavy pulling, tight ponytails, or frequent washing. Retighten your locs every 4 to 6 weeks.

Stage 2: Budding Stage (6–12 Months)

Your locs start to swell and look puffy. You may notice small bumps or loops along the length of each loc. This is normal and means your hair is beginning to lock.

Your locs may look less neat during this stage. Don’t panic. Avoid over-twisting or picking at the bumps. Let your hair do its thing.

Stage 3: Shooting (Teen) Stage (12–18 Months)

Your locs start to tighten and lengthen. They feel firmer and look more mature. The frizz and bumps from the budding stage begin to smooth out.

You can experiment with more styles during this stage. Your locs are strong enough to handle braids, twists, and updos.

Stage 4: Mature (Rooted) Stage (18+ Months)

Your locs are fully mature and locked. They are firm, smooth, and uniform. They no longer unravel when wet, and they grow at a steady rate.

At this stage, your locs require less maintenance. You can wash them more frequently and style them however you like.

Microlocs Aftercare: How to Keep Them Healthy

Proper aftercare is essential for healthy, long-lasting microlocs. Here’s everything you need to know.

How Often Should You Wash Microlocs?

Wash your microlocs 2 to 3 times per month, or once every 1 to 2 weeks. Clean hair and a clean scalp are important for healthy locs and healthy hair growth.

Use a residue-free shampoo designed for locs. Regular shampoos can leave buildup that makes your locs look dull and feel heavy.

A great option is Dreadlocks Shampoo, which is specifically formulated for locked hair.

How to Wash Microlocs Properly

• Wet your locs thoroughly with warm water
• Apply shampoo directly to your scalp, not your locs
• Massage your scalp gently with your fingertips (not your nails)
• Let the shampoo run down your locs as you rinse
• Rinse thoroughly until all shampoo is gone
• Squeeze out excess water with a towel—do not rub
• Air dry or use a hooded dryer on low heat

How to Make Thin Microlocs Thicker

If some of your microlocs are too thin and you want to make them thicker, you have a few options.

Option 1: Combine two locs
Take two thin locs that are next to each other and twist them together from root to tip. Secure the ends with a rubber band or by tucking them together. Over time, they will merge into one thicker loc.

This works best if your locs are less than 6 months old. Older, mature locs are harder to combine.

Option 2: Band the roots
Use a small rubber band to hold two or three locs together at the root. Leave the ends separate. As your hair grows, the roots will lock together. After several months, you can trim the loose ends and let the thicker loc grow out.

Be patient. It takes time for locs to merge completely.

How to Moisturize and Condition Microlocs

Moisturized locs are healthy locs. Dry locs are brittle and prone to breakage.

Do not use regular conditioners on your locs. Conditioners coat the hair and slow down the locking process. They can also cause buildup.

Instead, use natural oils to keep your locs moisturized:

• Coconut oil: Lightweight and absorbs easily. Great for daily use.
• Jojoba oil: Mimics your scalp’s natural oils. Good for dry scalps.
• Argan oil: Adds shine and softness without weighing locs down.
• Castor oil: Thick and nourishing. Use sparingly to avoid buildup.

Apply a small amount of oil to your scalp and the length of your locs 2 to 3 times per week. Focus on the ends, which tend to dry out first.

How Often Should You Retighten Microlocs?

Retighten your microlocs every 6 to 8 weeks during the first year. As your locs mature, you can stretch this to every 8 to 10 weeks.

Retightening involves re-twisting or re-braiding the new growth at the roots. This keeps your locs neat and encourages them to lock properly.

You can retighten your locs yourself at home or visit a loctician. If you do it yourself, work in good lighting and use a mirror to check the back of your head.

What Products Should You Avoid?

• Heavy creams and butters: They cause buildup and attract lint.
• Petroleum-based products: They don’t absorb and leave a greasy film.
• Products with silicones: They coat the hair and prevent locking.
• Regular conditioners: They soften locs and slow down maturity.

How to Protect Microlocs at Night

Cover your locs every night with a satin or silk scarf, bonnet, or pillowcase. Cotton absorbs moisture from your hair and causes frizz. Satin and silk keep your locs smooth and moisturized.

Common Problems and Solutions

Problem: Locs Are Unraveling

Solution: This is common during the starter stage. Retwist the unraveling locs and apply a small amount of loc gel. Avoid washing your hair too often during the first 3 months.

Problem: Locs Are Frizzy

Solution: Some frizz is normal, especially during the budding stage. To minimize frizz, cover your locs at night, avoid over-manipulating them, and apply a light oil to smooth flyaways.

Problem: Scalp Is Dry or Itchy

Solution: Apply a lightweight oil like jojoba or coconut oil directly to your scalp. Massage gently with your fingertips. Wash your locs regularly to remove buildup that can cause itching.

Problem: Locs Have Buildup

Solution: Use a clarifying shampoo or an apple cider vinegar rinse to remove buildup. Mix 1 part apple cider vinegar with 3 parts water, pour over your locs, let sit for 5 minutes, then rinse thoroughly.

Problem: Locs Are Different Sizes

Solution: If your locs are uneven, you can combine thin locs (as explained earlier) or leave them as they are. Many people find that uneven locs add character and a natural look.

Styling Ideas for Microlocs

One of the best things about microlocs is how versatile they are. Here are some popular styling options:

• High bun: Elegant and easy for work or formal events
• Low ponytail: Classic and keeps locs off your neck
• Half-up, half-down: Casual and flattering
• Braided updo: Braid your locs into a crown or basket weave
• Twist out: Twist sections of locs together for added texture
• Colored locs: Dye your locs in bold or subtle colors
• Loc jewelry: Add beads, cuffs, or rings for a decorative touch

Wait at least 4 weeks after installation before dyeing your locs. This gives them time to strengthen and lock properly.

Pros and Cons of Microlocs

Pros

• Lightweight and comfortable
• Highly versatile styling options
• Low to moderate maintenance
• Protects natural hair from damage
• Works well for thin or thinning hair
• Can be installed at home (DIY friendly)
• Lasts for years with proper care

Cons

• Installation is very time-consuming (24–50 hours)
• Requires regular retightening every 6–8 weeks
• Frizz and messiness during the budding stage
• Can be difficult to remove if you change your mind
• DIY installation may result in uneven locs
• Not ideal if you prefer quick, temporary styles

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Can I install microlocs on short hair?

Yes. You need at least 1 to 2 inches of hair, depending on your hair texture. Curly or coily hair can start with 1 inch. Straight hair should be at least 2 inches.

Do microlocs damage your hair?

No, microlocs do not damage your hair if installed and maintained properly. In fact, they protect your hair from daily manipulation and environmental damage.

Can I wash microlocs every week?

It’s best to wash them every 1 to 2 weeks. Washing too often during the starter stage can cause locs to unravel. Once your locs are mature (after 12–18 months), you can wash them more frequently.

How do I remove microlocs?

You can remove microlocs by carefully unraveling each loc. This takes many hours and works best if your locs are less than a year old. Mature locs are much harder to remove and may require cutting.

Can I swim with microlocs?

Yes, but rinse your locs with fresh water immediately after swimming. Chlorine and salt water can dry out your locs and cause buildup. Wear a swim cap if possible.

Can I color my microlocs?

Yes. Wait at least 4 to 6 weeks after installation before coloring. Use a semi-permanent or permanent dye designed for natural hair. Avoid bleach, as it can weaken your locs.

Do microlocs grow faster than loose hair?

Microlocs don’t grow faster, but they help you retain length. Because your hair is protected and not combed or manipulated daily, you experience less breakage and see more growth over time.

Can I get microlocs if I have relaxed hair?

Yes, but wait until you have at least 1.5 inches of natural new growth at the roots. Only apply loc products to your natural hair, not the relaxed ends.

Are microlocs permanent?

Microlocs are semi-permanent. They last as long as you maintain them. You can remove them by unraveling (if they’re young) or by cutting them off.

Do microlocs smell?

No, not if you wash them regularly and let them dry completely. Locs that are not washed or that stay damp can develop a mildew smell.

Microlocs Maintenance Schedule

Here’s a simple maintenance schedule to keep your microlocs healthy and beautiful:

Task	Frequency
Wash locs	Every 1–2 weeks
Apply oil to scalp and locs	2–3 times per week
Retighten new growth	Every 6–8 weeks
Deep cleanse (clarifying wash or ACV rinse)	Once a month
Trim ends (if needed)	Every 6–12 months
Protective covering at night	Every night

When Microlocs May Not Be Right for You

Microlocs are a great option for many people, but they’re not for everyone. Consider whether microlocs are right for you if:

• You prefer quick, temporary hairstyles that change often
• You don’t want to commit to regular maintenance
• You have very fine, fragile hair that breaks easily
• You don’t like the look of locs during the budding stage (puffy and frizzy)
• You’re not willing to invest the time for installation (24–50 hours)

If you’re unsure, try micro loc extensions first. Extensions let you try the look and feel of microlocs without committing to the full installation process.

Final Words

Microlocs are a beautiful, versatile, and protective hairstyle that works for many hair types and lifestyles. They take time and patience to install, but the result is a stunning, long-lasting style that you can wear for years.

Whether you choose to install them yourself at home or visit a professional loctician, follow the steps and tips in this guide to ensure your microlocs turn out healthy, strong, and gorgeous.

Remember to wash your locs regularly, moisturize with natural oils, retighten every 6 to 8 weeks, and protect them at night. With proper care, your microlocs will grow long, stay strong, and look amazing.

If you want to skip the long locking process and get instant length, you can also try micro loc extensions. Good luck with your microlocs journey!