Finger Waves: S-shaped waves created using fingers and comb

ByDr. Celestine (Certified Trichologist)

What are Finger Waves?

Finger waves are a classic hairstyling technique that creates soft, S-shaped waves close to the head using just your fingers, a comb, and setting lotion. They work by molding wet hair into a series of alternating ridges and troughs that set as they dry. Most people don’t realize that the original 1920s finger waves were a heat-free method, a stark contrast to the hot irons used for modern waves.

How Finger Waves Reshape Your Hair

Finger waves temporarily reshape your hair’s internal bonds. Think of your hair’s structure like a bundle of ropes held together by tiny links. When hair is wet and manipulated, these hydrogen bonds soften and allow the strand to be reshaped.

As the hair dries in its new wavy formation, these bonds lock back into place, holding the shape. I often see clients with low porosity hair struggle with this technique because their tightly bound cuticles resist absorbing the setting product and releasing moisture quickly enough to set the wave properly.

The Finger Waves Tension Trick

The secret to crisp, long-lasting finger waves lies in managing surface tension. You are essentially creating a meniscus, the same curved surface you see in a water glass, but on your head.

This requires a firm, consistent hold with your fingers and the comb until the setting lotion begins to polymerize, or form a film. If your hair is fine or silky, the wave pattern can slip away because the hair’s smooth surface can’t grip the forming style.

Why Finger Waves Deflate in Humidity

Humidity is the natural enemy of a finger wave set. The style is held by those temporary hydrogen bonds, which are highly susceptible to moisture in the air. On a humid day, water vapor re-enters the hair shaft, causing it to revert to its natural shape.

Think of it like a sugar sculpture dissolving in the rain. For this reason, I always recommend a light-hold, anti-humidity hairspray instead of a hard-hold formula, which can make hair sticky and actually attract more moisture.

Finger Waves on Different Hair Textures

Finger waves behave differently across the hair texture spectrum. On straight to wavy hair types, the style creates a dramatic, sculptural effect. The hair’s natural lack of a strong curl pattern allows it to be easily directed into the classic S-curves.

On tightly coiled coily hair textures, the technique can be used to create a stunning stretched wave pattern without heat. However, it requires significant skill to work with the hair’s natural shrinkage and density to achieve a uniform wave.

Will Finger Waves Work For You?

Yes

  • If your hair is between chin and shoulder length, providing enough length to form the wave pattern.
  • When you have a classic, vintage-inspired aesthetic and enjoy detailed styling.
  • If your hair holds a style well and isn’t overly slippery or resistant.

No

  • If your hair is very short, as there won’t be enough length to create the signature crests and troughs.
  • When you live in a consistently high-humidity climate and lack access to climate-controlled environments.
  • If your hair is severely damaged or has inconsistent porosity levels, which will cause the waves to set unevenly.

From My Experience

In my practice, I’ve observed that the single biggest mistake people make is using too much product. A heavy hand with setting lotion creates a helmet-like cast and flakes. You only need a thin, even glaze to encourage the hair’s natural ability to hold a shape.

I also advise clients to consider their hair’s history. Hair that has been repeatedly color-treated or chemically relaxed has a different structural integrity. The wave may not hold as long or may require a slightly different approach to product formulation to achieve a flawless, lasting set.

Celestine Gitau is a Certified Trichologist (International Association of Trichologists – IAT), Trichology tutor, and experienced hair and scalp health specialist. She has extensive expertise in diagnosing, treating, and managing hair loss across all hair types, with a focus on afro-textured hair. Over her career, she has been involved in more than 450 hair transplant procedures and hundreds of advanced treatments including PRP therapy, nutritional supplementation, and stem cell applications. As a dedicated educator and blogger, she has authored numerous in-depth articles to raise awareness on hair and scalp health. Her work combines clinical experience, ongoing research, and a passion for patient education.
Note: The information shared is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice. Always consult a qualified healthcare provider for personalized guidance.