Finger Wave: Flat wave pattern created with fingers and comb

ByDr. Celestine (Certified Trichologist)

What is Finger Wave?

Finger Wave is a classic hairstyling technique that uses fingers and a comb to create soft, S-shaped waves close to the head. It works by molding wet hair into ridges and troughs that set as they dry. Most people don’t realize this style was a revolutionary way for women in the 1920s to have chic, short hair without cutting it.

I often see clients who think this look requires a chemical relaxer. In reality, it’s all about physical manipulation and setting lotion. The waves form because you’re temporarily reshaping the hair’s hydrogen bonds while it’s damp.

How Finger Waves Reshape Your Hair

Finger waving physically repositions your hair strands into a new pattern. Your fingers create the crest of the wave while the comb pushes the hair into the trough. Think of it like pressing a new memory into a foam mattress that holds the shape until the next time you reset it.

The style relies on temporarily breaking and resetting the hydrogen bonds within the hair’s cortex. These bonds are much weaker than the disulfide bonds altered in perming. That’s why finger waves wash out, but a traditional wave perm is permanent.

I always tell my clients that successful finger waves need hair with good integrity. If your strands are too damaged, they won’t hold this structured shape. The hair needs enough natural strength to support the wave pattern without collapsing.

Why Finger Waves Demand Specific Hair Texture

This style works best on hair that isn’t too slippery or too resistant. You need a Goldilocks texture that can be molded and will hold the shape. Fine, straight hair often lacks the grip, while very coarse hair may fight the direction.

Think of your hair’s texture like modeling clay. If it’s too wet and fine, it slides flat. If it’s too dry and thick, it cracks instead of bending. Medium-textured hair with some natural body creates the most defined waves.

In my practice, I see the best results on type 2 wavy hair and type 3 curls that have been gently stretched. The hair already wants to move in a wave pattern, making the styling process much simpler and longer-lasting.

The Hidden Tension in Classic Finger Waves

Many modern tutorials miss how much consistent tension matters for this style. Each section needs even pressure from root to end to create a smooth, uninterrupted wave. Uneven tension is why home attempts often look messy instead of polished.

This constant pulling can stress the hair follicles if done too tightly or too often. I’ve treated cases of traction alopecia along the hairline from repeatedly wearing tight finger wave styles. Always listen to your scalp’s signals.

If you feel any discomfort during styling, the tension is too high. A proper finger wave should secure the hair without causing pain or redness along the part lines.

Will Finger Waves Work For You?

Yes

  • If your hair has medium texture and holds a bend well.
  • When you have time for the setting process and don’t mind using firm-hold products.
  • If your hair is in good condition without severe breakage or extreme porosity.

No

  • If you have very fine, slippery hair that rarely holds any style.
  • When your hair is highly textured or tightly coiled without significant stretching.
  • If your hair is severely damaged from color or heat, as it likely won’t hold the shape.

From My Experience

Through my clinical work, I’ve developed a simple test to predict finger wave success. Take a small section of damp hair and create one complete S-wave. If it holds this shape for five minutes without product, your hair is an ideal candidate.

I find many people use far too much setting product, which creates flaking and stiffness. You only need enough lotion to lightly coat the hair surface. The real magic happens in the finger and comb technique, not product overload.

For clients with chemically relaxed hair, I recommend a lighter hold product. Their hair is more porous and can become brittle with heavy alcohol-based setting lotions. A foam wrap lotion often gives better results.

Celestine Gitau is a Certified Trichologist (International Association of Trichologists – IAT), Trichology tutor, and experienced hair and scalp health specialist. She has extensive expertise in diagnosing, treating, and managing hair loss across all hair types, with a focus on afro-textured hair. Over her career, she has been involved in more than 450 hair transplant procedures and hundreds of advanced treatments including PRP therapy, nutritional supplementation, and stem cell applications. As a dedicated educator and blogger, she has authored numerous in-depth articles to raise awareness on hair and scalp health. Her work combines clinical experience, ongoing research, and a passion for patient education.
Note: The information shared is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice. Always consult a qualified healthcare provider for personalized guidance.