Finger Coils: Curling small sections of hair around the finger

ByDr. Celestine (Certified Trichologist)

What are Finger Coils?

Finger coils are a natural styling technique that uses your fingers to create uniform, springy spirals from the roots to the ends of your hair. This method defines your hair’s natural curl pattern without heat, creating a look that can range from tight ringlets to looser corkscrews. Most people don’t realize that the technique works by manually guiding your hair’s natural kinks and bends into a consistent, organized shape.

I see many clients who are amazed at how this simple act of coiling can reveal a defined curl pattern they never knew they had.

How Finger Coils Sculpt Your Curls

Finger coiling works by physically training your hair strands to clump together and spiral in a specific direction. When you apply a styling product and twist a small section around your finger, you are aligning all the individual hair cuticles. Think of it like gently twisting a loose rope of fibers into a single, cohesive cord.

This action encourages the hair’s natural bonds to settle into the coiled formation. The result is a beautifully defined curl that lasts for days. In my practice, I find this method causes far less long-term stress on the hair shaft compared to daily combing or brushing.

The Finger Coil Shrinkage Surprise

One of the most surprising aspects of finger coils is the dramatic shrinkage that occurs as your hair dries. Hair that appears shoulder-length when wet can shrink up to 70% into a head-full of tight, springy coils. This is a completely normal sign of healthy, elastic hair.

This shrinkage happens because the coil formation pulls the hair strand inward, like a stretched slinky returning to its compressed state. I always prepare my clients for this, so they aren’t shocked when their hair “disappears” – it’s just proof of a great coil set.

Why Your Hair Porosity Matters for Finger Coils

Your hair’s porosity – its ability to absorb and hold moisture – is the secret dictator of your finger coil success. If you have high porosity hair, your strands will suck up stylers quickly, so you need a heavier cream to prevent frizz. Low porosity hair repels moisture, so a lighter liquid gel works better to define curls without flaking.

Think of your hair’s cuticle layer like shingles on a roof. High porosity has missing shingles, so everything floods in. Low porosity has tightly sealed shingles, so moisture beads up. I test every client’s porosity because using the wrong product is the number one reason finger coils fail.

Finger Coils and Your Curl Type

While finger coils are famous for defining Type 4 hair, they can enhance almost any texture. The key is adjusting the size of your sections and the amount of product. For tighter coil patterns, smaller sections create more definition. For wavier hair, like Type 2 or Type 3, larger sections create soft, undulating waves.

The technique honors your hair’s innate structure instead of fighting against it. I’ve used it on everything from fine, straight hair to the coiliest textures—it’s all about working with what you have.

Will Finger Coils Work For You?

Yes

  • If you want to define and enhance your natural curl or wave pattern without heat.
  • When you are seeking a low-manipulation style that can last for several days to a week.
  • If your hair is at least a few inches long, providing enough length to wrap around a finger.

No

  • If your hair is currently severely damaged or chemically processed to the point of breakage.
  • When you are in a extreme rush, as the process requires patience and section-by-section attention.
  • If you have an extremely sensitive scalp that cannot tolerate prolonged manipulation.

From My Experience

In my clinic, I’ve observed that the clients who get the longest-lasting finger coils are the ones who start on thoroughly cleansed, damp hair. Product application is non-negotiable; you must use enough to coat every strand from root to tip. A common mistake is applying product only to the surface, leaving the core of the coil undefined and prone to frizz.

The real secret I share is to let your coils dry 100% completely before you even think about touching them. Any manipulation during the drying phase introduces frizz and breaks the cast formed by your styler. I tell my clients to set aside a good 4-6 hours for air drying or to use a hooded dryer on a low, cool setting.

For maintenance, I recommend a simple refresh with a water-based spray and a light re-coiling of any stray sections each morning. Sleeping in a satin bonnet or on a satin pillowcase is the ultimate game-changer for preserving your style night after night.

Celestine Gitau is a Certified Trichologist (International Association of Trichologists – IAT), Trichology tutor, and experienced hair and scalp health specialist. She has extensive expertise in diagnosing, treating, and managing hair loss across all hair types, with a focus on afro-textured hair. Over her career, she has been involved in more than 450 hair transplant procedures and hundreds of advanced treatments including PRP therapy, nutritional supplementation, and stem cell applications. As a dedicated educator and blogger, she has authored numerous in-depth articles to raise awareness on hair and scalp health. Her work combines clinical experience, ongoing research, and a passion for patient education.
Note: The information shared is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice. Always consult a qualified healthcare provider for personalized guidance.