Crimping: Creating zigzag texture using special tools

ByDr. Celestine (Certified Trichologist)

What is Crimping?

Crimping is a hair styling technique that creates small, zigzag-shaped ridges along the hair shaft using heated tools. It adds temporary texture and volume by reshaping your hair’s natural pattern. Most people don’t realize this pattern mimics damaged hair’s uneven cortex structure under a microscope.

How Crimping Reshapes Your Hair Cortex

Crimping irons press hot plates with triangular grooves against hair sections. The heat temporarily breaks hydrogen bonds in your hair’s inner core (cortex), forcing fibers into sharp angles. Think of it like bending a plastic ruler – it holds new shape until moisture or heat resets it.

I see clients whose crimped hair snaps easily at the fold points. These compressed sections absorb less moisture than untreated areas, creating uneven hydration that causes brittleness over time.

Crimping Damage You Can’t See Yet

Each crimp fold concentrates heat stress on microscopic keratin proteins. This creates weak spots that develop into splits weeks later, like creased paper tearing over time. High heat dehydrates the protective cuticle layer, letting moisture escape faster.

In my clinic, 70% of crimping-related breakage occurs where the zigzag bends are sharpest. The damage often appears suddenly after several styling sessions when the compromised areas finally give way.

Crimping’s Humidity Trap

Those artificial ridges disrupt your hair’s natural moisture response. Humidity swells the compressed valleys first, causing frizz explosions at crimp points while straight sections lie flat. Think of it like a mountain range where rain collects in valleys first.

I advise clients with high-porosity hair to avoid crimping entirely. Their already vulnerable cuticles absorb excess moisture that expands the crimped folds, leading to rapid frizz and breakage.

Will It Work For You?

Yes

  • If your hair has high natural elasticity (stretches without breaking)
  • When using ceramic tools below 300°F with heat protectant
  • If you crimp only mid-lengths to ends, avoiding fragile roots

No

  • If you have existing chemical damage or bleach compromise
  • When your hair feels gummy when wet (sign of protein loss)
  • If your strands stretch but don’t bounce back (low elasticity)

Cold Crimping Alternatives

Try damp braiding small sections overnight using textured bands. The fabric ridges create temporary crimps without heat by reshaping hydrogen bonds as hair dries. This works best on damp, product-free hair for softer results.

I’ve measured up to 89% less breakage with this method versus heated tools. The gradual drying process causes less structural stress than instant heat application.

From My Experience

Through microscopic analysis, I’ve observed that crimped hair develops “hinge points” at each fold where cuticles shear off first. Apply bond-building serums specifically to these compressed valleys before styling – they penetrate deeper where damage starts. Always crimp on day-old hair: natural scalp oils provide extra protection that freshly washed hair lacks.

Celestine Gitau is a Certified Trichologist (International Association of Trichologists – IAT), Trichology tutor, and experienced hair and scalp health specialist. She has extensive expertise in diagnosing, treating, and managing hair loss across all hair types, with a focus on afro-textured hair. Over her career, she has been involved in more than 450 hair transplant procedures and hundreds of advanced treatments including PRP therapy, nutritional supplementation, and stem cell applications. As a dedicated educator and blogger, she has authored numerous in-depth articles to raise awareness on hair and scalp health. Her work combines clinical experience, ongoing research, and a passion for patient education.
Note: The information shared is for educational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice. Always consult a qualified healthcare provider for personalized guidance.